Here is a short version of the events that started a new chapter in my life ...
My name is Martin. I really like mechanics, electronics, computers and operating systems as well as specific software that always allows me to achieve my goal. What I value most is quality, good thinking and common sense.
As a car mechanic freak (hobby), I have a lot of professional tools, knowledge and quite a lot of experience in repairing various cars.
In March 2019 I acquired a Mini Cooper S R56 2007 with 66,613 miles on the clock.
At that time, I didn't know anything about this car, only that the car was made by the British Motor Corporation from 1961 to 1971, then from 1990 to 2000 and after that it is made by BMW to this day.
The first "trip" made a very positive impression on me and I wanted to learn more about this car, since I like to check and repair vehicles.
The photos below show the car when I came to my place with it. Pay attention to the engine compartment, because this is where my attention will be focused on the beginning of the modification.
I checked on the internet for a lot of films, forums, news groups and Mini maniacs articles.
Thinking logically (which I really like ;-), in order to increase the engine power, you need to supply more "combustion mixture" = AIR + PETROL (Fuel). There is no problem with fuel, because the car is equipped with a fuel pump in the tank and a high-pressure pump at the injectors. Standard injectors also have adequate reserves for this type of modification. What about the air then - is there is enough of it? Of course everything depends on what we want to achieve.
If the high-pressure fuel pump gives 10% more fuel after reprogramming the ECU, the air is another matter. BMW programmed the "on-board" computer in such a way so that the exact amount of fuel fully coincided with the exact ratio of air which is applied by the turbo, air ducts and filters. Logically speaking, I will enlarge all air ducts and get rid of any resistances from the air system such as dampers, valves, noise/sound generators, etc. I also replace the factory-equipped Turbo with a larger capacity JCW Turbo.
To even more effectively increase the amount of Oxygen in the air supplied to the engine, I will install a much larger Intercooler and a direct cold air intake on the cone filter. Cooler air is more dense than warmer air. Warm air can actually hold more moisture because molecules are farther apart, making more room for moisture. Cold air is dense and compact, it's "thicker," so when you breathe in you get more oxygen.
Of course, the increase in engine power is also related to its higher operating temperatures, especially at high loads, so I have to think about new silicone hoses for the entire cooling system, a new water pump and thermostat to keep everything running reliably.
I will install a much larger Intercooler.
I will enlarge all air ducts.
Larger capacity JCW Turbo.
One of the most important things to do before any modification is to check all the components in the car that will directly correspond to or co-operate with the increase in engine power. Because the car is already 12 years old, I have to check almost every component. To get more power, that is to force the engine to work harder, I have to be sure that all parts responsible for the correct operation of the engine will work without any problems.
I decided to replace many of the sensitive and most important components with new ones:
engine cooling system pump (new metal)
engine cooling system pump pulley
engine cooling system hoses (new silicone)
engine cooling system thermostat (109'C)
engine cambelt
engine cambelt tensioner
engine timing chain
engine timing chain rails
engine timing chain tensioner
I will do a pressure test on individual cylinders to be sure that each piston will compress properly. I decided to replace the timing chain, so that I do not have additional work later and reduce the risk of breaking it, cracking and crushing valves. I will generally check for any oil leaks from various parts in the car. Of course, I will check the entire suspension system as well.
Gerbox oil leak
Engine oil leak
Engine oil leak
Engine oil leak
Anti Roll Bar bush
Any work related to the modification is given below in more or less detail in comic book form.
There are many photos and almost all of them have descriptions of the operations that were performed.
If anyone requires a detailed description of any procedure, please contact me.
This is not a guide or instruction on how to perform such a modification, but information on how I performed the entire procedure. If anyone undertakes to carry out such modifications on the basis of the information contained on my website, then he / she takes responsibility for everything and must remember that each modification will result in the loss of the remaining car warranty, if any.
I do not take responsibility for wrong operation or bad execution of modifications that are described on my website.
Replacing most of the air ducts
Replacing Crankshaft seal
For oil and cooling system
For access to the parts for replacement
Will be replaced by 3 times bigger capacity
Time for Cooling System
Removing Coolant
Removing old rubber pipes
Checking for oil leaks
Replacing old rubber pipes
To ensure proper cooling operation
Resistant to high temperatures
Removing old cooling pump
Redy for installation
On the new cooling pump
For new v-belt
Installed
Installed
Vacuum pump removed
All seals will be replaced
Full regenaration
New High Temp paint coat
For cooling system
Filling the entire system
Air suppressor - OUT
Sound generator - OUT
Air filter container - OUT
Air intake "bottom" - STAYS
More Air = More Power
Replacing existing Air ducts
Such a waste
Old filter compartment
New filter compartment
More AIR from outside
Inlet via two separate routes
Making room for new stuff
Air filter compartment
Direct cold air intake
All conected
Installation
To reduce the oil deposit in INTAKE
Cheking intake temperature
Many stone chips
Sanding
Sanding & Cleaning
Primer
In the meantime - wraps
Cutting Vinyl
Instead of gray plastic
Preparing parts for wraping
I am very pleased with the results
Disassembly of the rest
Side "skirts"
Rear bumper
Wraping
Painting by paint pen
White matte Vinyl
Much bigger and first silencer cut-out
Bigger than the original
Disasembled all plastic parts
Installed new wraped parts
Ordered necessary clips
Everything is put together
Washing the bonnet
cleaning before wraping
Wraping
Wraped
First "silencer" cut-out
Beautiful deep bass
Bran new
Old one for replacement
New one IN and clips painted
I downloaded the car's ECU for all the data to review and check the parameters with which I can change the maps responsible for the amount of fuel - petrol and air.
Sanded first layer of clear
Clear coat sanded
Looking good
Stickers ON
Looking for Vacuum leak
Intake OUT to check the status of Carbon residue in the engine
Measuring sensor using Propan torch
Cleaning all carbon residue
Cleaning sensor with pure alcohol
Best product for this task from my experience for little price
All channels and ducts will be cleaned and washed
Valves covered with carbon
Valves covered with carbon
Valves covered with carbon
Valves covered with carbon
Smoothing new paint places on the body
Palm wax stays on the body for two years
Looks like a mirror
Metal brushes, paper towels, absorbing oil fabrics
Way to check that the cylinders are up and the valves are closed
After making sure that the valves are closed and the cylinders are in the upper position, I flooded the inlet of the cylinder with the liquid (Air Intake & Carburettor Cleaner) and cleaned it completely with brushes as well as paper and fabric towels.
The effect surprised me completely because I could see a completely clean engine block and beautiful clean valves during the intercourse with the endoscopic camera.
I am undergoing one of the most important tests in terms of engine quality and performance. It is a test or rather a pressure measurement on each cylinder. If there is a very large difference between one of the cylinders or the value is below 130-150 psi, then I will have a fairly expensive disassembly of the engine and its repair. All test was superb and I was so happy about it.
As the pipe is much bigger - hits frame
and metal "cable ties" for install
I wrapped the pipe, so that it would not hit the frame and make noise
Cleaning second O2 sensor
Improved connection
Checking results
Live data from the ECU
In whole car light system
In whole car light system
After replacing resistors
After replacing resistors
Preparation for wraping
Carbon Fibre efect
Rough idle problem still existed
and in the service book it is noted that it was replaced
Good tip for me that it was never done
The tool cannot be mounted
Loosening Intake shaft to be able to use it
Now I can unscrew both gears.
Now I can unscrew the crankshaft screw below
Using the biggest key I have got to do it
And old timing chain
and new timing chain
20Nm + 180' of rotation
20Nm + 90' of rotation
50Nm + 180' of rotation
With slight apprehension, I put the key in the ignition.
Because I knew that I did everything myself, and according to my motto that's only for the best, I pressed the START button without thinking.
What happened made my jaw drop...
The engine started without any problems, which made me even more convinced that if I'm searching for the highest quality of work, I can only achieve it only if I do this work myself.
Red Carbon Fiber Vinyl turned out not to be UV resistant
I removed the vinyl to prepare the surface for the primer
I had to sanded a lot of chips
Whole bonnet sanded
Primer applyed
Primer pre-sanded
I asked the seller if it has a UV filter
With UV filter
deja vu...
Black Matte Carbon Fibre
Applyed
Waiting for new Air Hood
New bigger Air Intake hood
Original "grill" too blocked
Painting aluminum mesh
All done
And more Air gets inside
And more Air gets inside
I bought "angel eyes" and I mounted them on a rack I made
View of the light ON at night
After 3 months, all the paint applied with the felt-tip pen started to drain from the tire. It was quite annoying, so I decided to try something else and put/glued a white rubber on the tires.
I made a template for my tires
I cut the letters out of the rubber
And glued each to the tire
As you know, I am crazy about this car, so everything must work like in a Swiss watch (without jams and any problems)
I have to fix damaged thread in the engine block (from previous owner) to properly align and tighten the engine valve cover
I filled the entire hole for the screw with this glue
The next day, when it dried up, I could drill in it
I drilled with a slightly smaller drill than the thread itself
I also bought new stainless steel M6 40mm screws
Everything looked fine in the engine bay except for one element
Turbo coolant tube rusted very quickly after the last cleaning
I have to paint it with high temperature primer and paint
Now it looks like new. A small detail, but I am so happy
Of course I also painted the temperature shield/cover for the turbo
As winter is coming
I want to check some specific chemical for the engine
I did some tests while driving and idling - NO OIL ADDITIVE
I did some tests while driving and idling - WITH OIL ADDITIVE
After checking all the measurements and comparing them using the computer data, I found that with OIL ADDITIVE the engine, even when idling, has a 3% lower load, which does not seem to be a huge, but with modifications and tunings, the load does not add, but multiplies and this is a big difference.
Unfortunately, some peeled off and others became very discolored
I bought a white rubber paint to try
The effect was very good
I am returning with modifications to the interior. It will be a long and tedious process, because I'm going to disassemble almost everything and replace the stereo with a 2DIN Android unit with a touchscreen, install a reverse camera, change the color of all buttons, indicators and clocks.
After changing the brightness
I wanted to change the colour
all buttons, clocks, indicators
Changing LED's from "orange" to BLUE
Changing LED's from "orange" to BLUE
Changing LED's from "orange" to BLUE
Main console buttons
Main console LED's
Computer and speedometer
I even painted the "needle"
Remake/rebuild the radio to keep the computer working
Space for a 2DIN touch screen
Fun by the millimeters
Additional cabin lighting
The stereo with CD does not fit
CD OUT, it will be Android
New longer connection tape
Switch-On Board has the necessary plugs
It is enough to install new screen
Reverse camera installation
Reverse camera installation
Reverse camera installation
Reverse camera installation
Signal from the reverse gear lamp
Fit perfectly in place of the screw
Goes well with everything
And tape to hold until dry
It is virtually unnoticeable
I had to use electronic filters
Place for tweeter speaker
Drilling out
Sanding
Ready for speakers
Almost ready
Drilling stering wheel covers
Looking good
Happy with the results
Working fine
Machine-made thread repair did not yield a result
Machine-made thread repair did not yield a result
I have to do it again
Additionally I sealed the gasket itself
I give the day to dry
on slow rpm
This time only a manual tap
For increased thread quality
I threaded the whole piece
I threaded the whole piece
Looking much better than before
Loctite silicone on each edge and crease of the seal
Loctite silicone on each edge and crease of the seal
For cure
Next day
All bolts
By shocks and vibrations
By shocks and vibrations
I put new pice
In two separate places
High temp. layered reinforced silicone
Back to wrapping. I have to fix the lower part of the rear bumper, because last time I put white vinyl stripes on the undone two parts and I want to fix it now.
White vinyl stripes
For better finish
Looking very good
Everything is dry and in perfect condition
Everything is dry and in perfect condition
Successful color change of backlight LED's
Successful color change of backlight LED's
The roof lining began to creak
Rubber bands are worn out
I glued felt rings
I glued felt rings
I have no idea how old this battery is. Works fine yet, but no install date.
Just in case for new electronic equipment and Touchscreen to work well
I always lubricates the battery terminals well with grease
I have practiced this with batteries all my life
To prevent electrical corrosion, just like on the picture above
After a year since purchasing the car and making all the modifications, I had the opportunity to go to the very center of Europe (3200 km), which was a very good test for everything I did with this car. As you can expect, nothing I changed, did or improved in the car ended up breaking and the car bravely covered the whole route with very good combustion results, despite the tuned ECU. However, I must go back to my basic motto and quote it here again:
Why do I mention it here and now?
The reason is simple. This is something that I have not touched on all this time, because before delivering the car to me, the previous owner had the brake discs and pads replaced and informed me about it. Everything looked like new, in fact. I didn't care about it at all - big mistake!
After driving 1750 km (on that journey) I started to feel vibrations in the steering wheel during braking. I was able to inspect my car's braking system at my friend's garage. I quickly came to the conclusion that there were some strange pits on the brake discs and one of the pads was very strangely worn. There was nothing left but to order new discs and new pads and replace them so that I could safely return to England.
Nothing to add, I ordered the best quality system
A world-famous company that deals with brake systems
Brembo
Brembo
Brembo